Strip your SPDS
Su Kear | Blog, Knowledge, What Mountain Bike | 06/10/2011 14:23pm
Follow Justin Loretz’s simple steps to stripping down your SPDs
Remove the pedals
You can’t do anything with the pedals still attached to the cranks. Removal is easy as long as you remember that it’s left to loosen and right to tighten – ‘lefty loosey, righty tighty’.
Remove the axle
Fit the pedal body in a vice and
use a Shimano TL-PD40 plastic tool and large adjustable spanner to unscrew the serrated collar. Some higher end Shimano pedals have direct spanner flats in place of the TL-PD40.
With the pedal axle removed from the body, you can use a clean, dry cloth to floss
the remaining grease and dirt from inside. A blast of spray degreaser can help shift the stubborn bits.
Check the screws
One of the main causes of SPD failure isn’t down to the bearings failing, but loss of one or more of the small retaining screws used to attach the kick plate. Remove each screw and clean, re-prep with Loctite 242 and retighten to 4Nm.
Lube the springs
Dry springs can make your pedals feel rough. The jaws of an SPD rely on smoothly operating springs to activate the pedal jaws. When dry or rusty they bind making entry and release unpredictable. Add a light lube to the springs and wipe away any excess.
With the axle out of the pedal, focus on the metal barrel below the 10mm nut. Continue to make adjustments until the barrel has no play but spins freely. Lock the 10mm nut in place
by counter tightening against the 7mm locknut.
Get the best quality Teflon-based grease you can and half fill the pedal bodies with it. As you replace the pedal axles, be sure that you’ve filled the pedals and pushed out any remaining old grease/dirt. Wipe away any excess grease.
Threads on Shimano pedal collars are a fine pitch and can be damaged or cross-threaded by ham-fisted attempts to reinstall. Make sure the collar is square against the pedal body before tightening. Then reinstall to the cranks.
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Tags: Blog, SPDs, tech, WMB